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Lister SW Series;

The water cooled version of the SR, the SW was in production for around 7 years, up to 1976. The bottom half core components (cylinders excepted) are generally shared with the SR, but much of the rest of the engine is different and various parts can be problematic. Like the SR, it is a well engineered unit, but corrosion tends to be the big issue. Theoretically available in both rotations, almost all SW (unlike the SR) are anti-clock rotation as standard. If you are looking at one for a new project and need a water cooled Lister it is probably better to consider the later Alpha series engines, although they tend not to sound as nice as the SW.

Below are listed some useful tips on what to look for when ordering some of the more common pieces for your STW. If you think we have missed something useful, or got something wrong, please email and let us know. We welcome any suggestions for improving the usefulness of this page.

Lister SW Parts Availability:

Routine Service Items -- 100% availability. If ordering, please note the following first:

Oil Filter.Where fitted, just one type -- as easy as it gets.

Fuel Filter. Just one pattern of fuel filter used on the SW range. Small paper element type contained within a metal bowl; the bowl is secured by a single bolt from the bottom.

Air Filter Although it may have an air filter housing, it may be empty and used as an intake silencer; otherwise the original fitment was an oil bath type which providig it is not rusty or shedding fragments may be cleaned, re-oiled and reused.
If your engine has beenm fitted with a paper air filter, please advise the element dimensions.

External Components --- Varying availability.

Originally fitted with a dynamo charging system, later units sometimes having, or been converted to alternator. We are able to supply replacement dynamo system parts, but given the expense and relative unreliability and low output it really is worth thinking about converting to an alternator system. We have seen numerous alternator fitments so a photo is helpful if you want a replacement.

Drive Belts If you are unable to see any numbers on the existing belt, please advise inside length of the belt and the width of the belt. We have seen numerous different pulleys fitted to STW series and it is important to ensure the belt does not ground out in the bottom of the groove.

Starter Motors (Electric) Over time, two patterns of motor were fitted. Earlier units have a stud spacing of around 90mm (or thereabouts), while later ones are around 105mm. Early pattern motors suitable for non-standard (clockwise) rotation engines are significantly scarce and expensive. If your motor is tired but not dead a precautionary repair may save you considerable time, effort and cost. The larger stud pattern motor is also relatively expensive for clockwise engines but no availability issues. If you have the smaller pattern motor take the time to have a good look where it bolts to the housing; some housings are drilled to accept both patterns of motor.
If you are shopping around for a starter motor for your SW be aware there is often considerable confusion among non-Lister sources over the issue of rotation. If you have a standard rotation (clockwise) SR you will need an anti-clockwise rotation starter motor and vice versa. The rotation of a starter motor is determined by which way the pinion turns as viewed from the pinion end of the motor. Many starter suppliers simply refer to rotation without being clear whether they mean the starter or the engine, or indeed without knowing how Lister define rotation.

Starter Motors (Clockwork; Hydraulic)
Available to order. Seriously expensive. This page is the property of No reproduction without prior approval and visible credit
Fuel Injectors   Good availability.

Fuel Injection Pumps    No supply issues. If you're not sure what you are doing with these pumps, the job is best left to a person with suitable experience, as removal and refitting inevitably involves checking both the injection timing and balance between pumps.

Fuel Lift Pump Readily available.

Raised Hand Start Limited availability of sprocket assemblies but repair parts available. Chain; readily available.

Water Pump
Good availability but an expensive item. Impellers and repair kits also available. New drive shafts in stock.

Exhaust Manifold
Unless you are very lucky, nil availability of original manifolds. We are able to supply in stainless; made to order.

Water Manifold
Nil availability. We can have stainless made to pattern.

Gaskets and Joints 100% availabilty; sets or individually.

Internal Components

Poor availability of parts peculiar to the SW.

If you are contemplating significant work to your SW we strongly recommend you investigate the degree of corrosion present within the engine before committing to any expenditure. Carefully remove the water rail; take your time -- if it has significant corrosion it is likely to break if subject to any leverage. Check the condition of the rail and the appearance of the cylinder head water passages. If these give you cause for concern it is time to move down and check the cylinder jackets. Take your time removing the cylinder doors. Once these are off, you should have a good picture of the extent of any corrosion.
New cylinder heads and cylinder barrels are not to be had, unless you get a lucky break and the availability of serviceable used items is not good as they all tend to suffer the same issues. We very occasionally have them, so always ask. Pistons and bottom end pieces are generally not an issue as they are common with the SR. Cylinder head components are generally not an issue.

Complete Engines
New engines long unobtainable. We very occasionally have core units available for rebuild. If you want your own engine rebuilding we really need to inspect it before coming to a decision due to the corrosion issues.

Top Tip !
First --- if laying up a raw water cooled SW, drain the block and pump and refill with an anti freeze mix of at least 30%. Apart from frost protection it will inhibit corrosion. If it is skin tank cooled, then keep that mix in all year round.

Second -- if the oil level rises slowly and / or the oil smells of fuel, this is always a sign of fuel finding its way into the sump. Typically this will be coming from the fuel pumps and is a sign it is time to have them overhauled. Less often, it may be due to a leaking internal pipe or defective lift pump. Whatever the reason, don't ignore it as it will only get worse and oil thinned with fuel just isn't going to do its job properly. In extreme cases there is a theoretical possibility of the engine runnig away on fuel vapour from the sump.

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